The Boss: Miura's V2 Rocket Bunny S1. SHARE. The Boss: Miura’s V2 Rocket Bunny S1. Miura Works His Magic Once Again. And there you all were complaining that the only thing Miura- san was able to do is slap over- fenders onto a bunch of different cars. Months before we see new cars presented at motor shows we are usually bombarded with spy shots and CG images of said future models, and it isn’t too different when it comes to the aftermarket world. Not that Miura actually cares.

In fact, he’s totally open about sharing his next project with the rest of the world through the countless renderings he teases via his Facebook page. So, long before it materialized in the real world, we all knew this Version 2 Rocket Bunny S1. Little did I know how much better the completed conversion was going to look in person though.

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So, after seeing the car unveiled the day before at the Bunny Cafe’s opening party in Yokohama (I’ve got a separate post on this coming up very soon), I made plans with Miura to swing by the following morning to quickly shoot the S1. Kyoto. Since we are right smack bang in the middle of the rainy season here in Japan, the weather was far from cooperative. But as soon as I saw the gray S1. When I’m driving around looking for spots to shoot in Yokohama I can never resist venturing into the narrow streets of China Town. So with Kenji Yamanaka – famed Japanese drifter, Formula D driver and now the man behind Bunny Cafe – at the wheel, we took the S1. Rpg Yugioh Game Download Roms Ps1 more.

On a normal day this particular intersection would be absolutely overflowing with tourists and people on the hunt for some fresh shoronpo, gyoza or nikuman (all Japanese names for Chinese food – yes, confusing!), but given the weather there was hardly anyone around. Which meant we could get away with doing a couple of loops in the barely- silenced Silvia. And who wouldn’t want to be woken up to that sound? The Boss Conversion In Detail. But what I really wanted to do was get away from the center of the city and drive out towards the port area of Yokohama to shoot the . In case you’re wondering, that’s the name Miura- san has coined for this V2 S1.

Rocket Bunny kit. Like most things that look well executed and presented, getting the S1. Like all the kits that Rocket Bunny produces, the Boss will ship with fitting instructions, but this time around it’s not just a little bit of fender cutting that you have to do – the whole front end of the car pretty much has to come off. And the new front end look is the first thing that catches your eye when you come face to face with the car.

My first thought was how short the nose looks, and I think this side profile view will emphasis that point. It’s akin to one of those dogs with a squashed nose – like a Bull Dog or Pekingese.

The car’s profile flows nicely, but then it suddenly cuts off in the same way you accidentally slice off a bit of your skin when trying to impress people with your vegetable- chopping skills, or lack of thereof. It almost goes without saying that Miura has been inspired by an old . The American feel of the look is then mated to an impossibly Japanese externally- mounted oil cooler like the old Works Hakosukas used to run back in the ’7. As I took it all in under the ever- persistent rain, Kenji and Miura patiently waited for me under their umbrellas, surprised at the fact that I was actually bothering to shoot the car in this sort of weather. I reassured them that the S1.

So much rain falls during the warm months of June, July and August that vegetation grows like it’s running forced induction and a big shot of nitrous. But at times the overgrowth comes in handy for boxing your subject in a unique frame. The more I looked at the S1. I was surprised at how damn well it all flowed – even though I couldn’t shake the feeling of looking at two different cars stitched together in Photoshop. I can’t quite put my finger on why, but the only thing I was thinking about at this point was how much I wanted an S1. That of course has to be a result for Miura, and I once again tip my proverbial hat in a sign of respect because this stuff isn’t easy.

Stunning people and making a statement in this game takes true talent. Take a look at the car from the rear and it’s all Silvia. The familiar kouki light cluster and rounded- off rear end – it’s all still there. But to freshen things up from the original Rocket Bunny 6. Customs aero treatment for this chassis – which has been around for years – the signature fender flares had to make a showing. The are more bulbous than what we may have seen on other cars, but in my opinion are a far better match to the previously- mentioned rounded feel of the S1. There’s no cut- out rear bumper here either – the stock item remains and is joined by Rocket Bunny’s familiar multi- piece FRP diffuser.

A Familiar Rear. But it just couldn’t be 1. To me, it’s far more fitting than a bigger wing which would probably act more as an air brake than actually do anything positive for downforce. Under those cut and over- fendered wheel arches sit a lovely set of Enkei- made, 1. Customs 2- piece Mesh wheels with a satin finish for the centres and a polished- look anodised lip section. Given this Silvia’s Japanese and American influences, Miura- san’s own wheels couldn’t be a better fit for the Boss! Of course, with the front end having been shortened quite dramatically, the bonnet isn’t nearly as long as the standard one either. If you do happen to go for this conversion an FRP hood is supplied as part of the package.

When I lifted it up I was actually a little disappointed at not finding eight cylinders sitting under there! While Miura does plan to build another car with a thumping great V8, due to time constraints this particular car runs a mildly- tuned SR2. DET – which is in no way bad of course. There’s a Tomei Expreme exhaust manifold to aid in better flow and faster spool up of the S1. Garrett turbo, while all piping has been replaced with aluminium sections running into a larger cored intercooler. Interestingly enough, the original CG images of the car showed the car with an externally front- mounted intercooler plumbed into place via the two round openings on each corner of the bumper, but that would have called for far more fabrication work than the deadline allowed.

So the oil cooler had to do this time around. There’s no questioning that the intercooler gets the job done – the only real drawback might be somewhat restricted airflow to its position behind the grille and bumper. Inside, Miura has kept things pretty simple in the first Boss- converted S1. So joining the white- faced dials is an Autogauge boost meter neatly housed in a steering column pod. That sits behind a deep- cupped Rallye steering wheel with a few other must- have JDM gadgets – including a boost controller and turbo timer – positioned on each side of the instrument binnacle. Since the car rides on Tein adjustable coilovers, Miura also added an EDFC controller for on- the- fly damper adjustments.

And if the serious Bride race seat is anything to go by, this car is meant to be driven! While we were at Bunny Cafe I thought I’d take a quick video walk around the car while Kenji and Miura discussed the Rocket Bunny kitted NSX parked in the entrance way. Bunny herself even makes a little cameo appearance, so hit play and check it out!

The final judgment however, is really up to you guys. Has Miura created something that people will like? Judging from the comments that flowed into our Instagram feed when I first uploaded a picture of the completed car, I’m pretty sure he has. The Boss will no doubt reignite interest in one of the most popular platforms Nissan has ever created, and I have a feeling we will be seeing this kit at the center of some of the toughest S1.

Roll on SEMA Show and Tokyo Auto Salon is all I have to say! Now, I wonder who will be the first one out there to drop a V8 into a Boss’d- up Silvia. Will someone beat Miura himself to the punch? Dino Dalle Carbonare. Instagram: speedhunters.

S1. 4 SR2. 0DET into S1. Swap. S1. 4 SR2. 0DET into DOHC S1.

Swap. I hope this is helpful to those interested in doing this swap. Ok, so as most of you know I did this swap recently. I looked all over the internet for people who had done the swap and how to wire it. Well after trying what I found on my own I realized how wrong most of the “free” information was. I didn’t want to buy a wiring DVD and I also didn’t want to spend $3. I know I could do it on my own.

So being armed only with the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for both cars (which are available upon request here on NICOclub) I wired it all on my own. With that being said I am going make a disclaimer, this is the way I did it in my personal car, some may have done it differently than I did. However my car runs great has no check engine light/fault codes.

Also for the SOHC owners out there. However, the wire colors are the same on both DOHC and SOHC interior plugs. This means you should be able to match up my diagram with the correctly colored wires on your SOHC plug. Also the SOHC cars will need a DOHC Tach/cluster in order to read the tach signal of the SR. Now for the full disclaimer.***I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR WHAT HAPPENS TO YOUR CAR IF YOU USE THIS GUIDE, IT IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY!***ALSO, if you aren’t wiring- savvy, want a factory- looking engine swap harness that’s plug- and- play, or you simply don’t have the time to mess with all that spaghetti, contact the guys at Wiring Specialties. They make some beautiful engine swap harnesses that look better than the factory ever made! Ok to start off, my swap was from a JDM Zenki S1.

They are the 1st generation S1. The mechanical portion of this swap is all bolt on and drop in, meaning the motor/tranny mounts are all the same for S1. S1. 4 and S1. 5. So the motorsets will fit no matter what chassis they are in.

The stock KA drive shaft fit fine, however I had to remove the tranny dust cover in order to push it all the way into the tranny. Start with pulling the stock KA motor, trans, wiring harness and ecu. All the smog equipment on the KA can be removed with the exception of the charcoal canister. Leave that behind since it’s doesn’t affect power/reliability and is used for removing fuel vapors from the fuel tank.

Here you see I removed the hood for more clearance. Here are the S1. 3 power plugs that lead to the KA ECU, these need to be spliced into the S1. Behind the glove box you can see the interior plug for the DOHC S1.

S1. 4 interior harness wires. On SOHC cars this plug will be white. Ignore the ****ty stereo wires as they were there before I bought the car lol.

More parts removed from the car. Once everything is disconnected from the car you can loosen the motor/tranny mounts and pull it from the car. Now we are ready to put the SR in.

At this point remove the S1. KA temp sender from the the KA motor, it is a single pin sender located on the coolant inlet of the intake manifold. Then take the temp sender from the S1.

SR out, which is located under the throttle body. Replace it with the KA temp sender. This will make your temp gauge on the dash function correctly. Here you can see I removed the stock clutch fan because I have no use for it since I already have a set of Altima electric fans. All done and bolted in!

Here are the stock SR heater hose lines. As you can see in the pic these can be cut and routed right to the stock USDM S1. I chose to use the hoses that came with my swap since they were in great condition. However there are a set of hoses you can get that are preven and fit the S1. SR heater location perfect.

I will posts those numbers later. Here you can see the stock S1. S1. 4 bracket which is why the S1. These are the stock S1. DOHC S1. 3 throttle cable.

On the SOHC cars I am not sure if this will work since I dont have a SOHC and the cable is a different length (IE: you may need to get a DOHC KA throttle cable). This is the grommet after it has been modified to slip over the throttle cable.

Throttle cable installed and routed. Also you can see the DOHC KA brake booster vacuum line, all you need to do is trim it to length to fit the SR motor. My new Koyo S1. 3 SR2. SR2. 0 rad is needed cuz of the different inlet location on the SR vs. KA, otherwise you will need to make a crossover tube.

Beware tho, SR’s like to run hot especially when they are running on a stock KA rad. You should really run a better radiator for this swap. At this point you can hook up the power steering lines, on the DOHC S1. SR pump location. From what I have been told on the SOHC cars you can simply buy the DOHC high pressure line and swap it over. Here is where it gets a bit interesting, the S1. Sony Vegas Pro 9 Portable.

S1. 4 SR motor’s have different plumbing/routing for the charge pipes. The BOV’s are on different sides and the stock SMIC’s sit in different spots too.

So you can use the S1. SR charge pipes but you will have to drill holes and make your own mounts to make it all fit and work. In my case I already had an S1. Greddy FMIC kit, so I ended up using a combination of the stock S1. Greddy piping as well.

Then I bought an after market S1. Some people say buy the S1. Greddy kit and you’re good but again not all of the piping fits right either.

So you’re pretty much gonna need to custom cut/make all the charge pipes. I had to reposition my battery to drill a 3 inch hole for the intercooler piping to pass thru. Now for the really fun part. You are basically going to fully destroy your KA harness and rape it for connectors/shielded wires.

If you’re ok with this then use your harness, otherwise get a spare one. The good part is the power plugs are the same on the KA DOHC and SOHC harnesses, the bad part is the interior plug is different on them. So you really need to a harness that fits your chassis.

The lower engine harness for the KA will plug right into the S1. SR motor, all you need to do is drill to enlarge the hole on the KA Alternator power wire ring terminal to fit the size of the stud on the S1. SR Alt. The S1. 4 SR tranny plug ends will need to changed over to the S1. I decided to just change the plug ends on the tranny sensors so that I could reuse the lower harness on my S1. KA tranny later. Some people say you can simply take the sensors from the S1. S1. 4 tranny. The Speed Sensor from the S1. Tranny must be used since the S1.

At this point we have to wire the main harness! So I had to repair my harness first, then deloom it entirely and wire it up my way. Where you should start is by delooming and rerouting the harness connections on the motor to fit the LHD configuration of the USDM S1.

Route it however you want. This is so you know what wires need to be extended to meet their respective connections. In my case I extended the MAF, Boost Solenoid, Power Steering Switch and I also added the stock Boost Pressuse Sensor connection to come out by the TPS plug. I also changed the S1. SR power steering switch plug over to the the KA plug to fit my KA power steering switch.

On a side note the stock boost pressure sensor is plugged into the S1. SR’s fuse box, make sure you get this sensor and plug end when you buy your motorset. I am not sure if this is needed to make the car run right, but from what I read in the S1. SR F. S. M. The boost pressure sensor is easy to wire, all you have to do is tap the power and ground from the TPS to the power and ground from the pressure sensor they are the same colors. This is the way it was from nissan as well, just the location of the sensor is different.

Then with the remaining signal wire extend and run a sheilded signal wire back thru the wiring harness to the white wire on the S1. SR interior plug, this leads to Pin 3. ECU. Make sure that you use a shielded wire for all the signal wires, you can get shielded wires off of your old KA harness.

Here is the S1. 4 wiring harness unmodified. Here is the harness after I de- loomed part of it, the blue plug with the larger gauge blue wire is the ignition coil relay, the other is the ecu relay. Finally the white plug is the S1.